MONNANNI – POGGI DEL CHIANTI, CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA CARDELLINO 2020

This under-the-radar winery and olive oil producer farms vineyards at elevation in the lower Monti del Chianti, northern Gaiole. Its Sangiovese-Cabernet blend is strikingly medicinal, with assertive eucalyptus, menthol, rosemary, tarragon and cinnamon over amarena cherry and prune, the aromatic lift accentuated by sandy soils. Acidity is fresh and well judged, while a leathery savouriness runs through the wine though without any sense of salinity per se. Tannins are gravelly and loose, diffused within the smoky translucence of the body. It is very pleasant drinking now, finishing with dried red fruit, leather and liquorice, though the structure suggests only medium-term longevity.